“buzz” in the air (sound of generators), which can only mean one
thing – power is out! (again) ha. Sarah, the MV country director (my
roommate and personal tour guide for the week) tells our fellow boda boda
(motorcycle taxi) driver to B line it to the local Coffee Hut, which thankfully
always runs off a generator. No surprise to see the place overflowing
with fellow Muzugus (white people) just getting off work from other
philanthropic organizations such as Invisible Children, Krochet Kids,
31 Bits, LRA Research personnel, photographers, camera peeps, and heaps
more.
My concept of time still escapes me. A week ago I was taking
advantage of Hermosa Beach's Ocean Bar’s free vodka sodas – a’hem, I
mean concentrating on packing. Sarah collected me Monday morning in
Kampala after almost 72 hours of travel time with over 160 lbs. of
luggage still in one piece (wahoo!) to make the 5 hr. trek to Gulu.
Kampala is Uganda’s capital that reeks of car exhaust, a hint of dung,
and smelly airplane girl – oh, wait that was me. I didn’t think it
was possible but I can now say with confidence that I have experienced
far worse traffic than the infamous 405. JEEPERS. After having a
(way) better than American breakfast burrito, a stop at the shopping
“mall” where a box of Kelloggs Corn Flakes is 20,000 shillings - $10!,
we caught a glimpse of Lake Victoria and proceeded to sweat ourselves
silly due North. I woke abruptly to the sound of shawdy tires on a
shackled bridge looking at what appeared to be Niagra Falls – The Nile
River. I had to turn my head a full 180 in order to catch sight of
the vast width of deadly rapids. Absolutely MASSIVE.
Goats, chickens, and barefoot toddlers welcomed us to the Ivory Guest
House and home for the next 4 months where our local guard
Mzee one handedly lopped my +70lbs. suitcase over his shoulder without
a flinch! WHAAA?! Baby cockroaches greeted us at our apartment and
snuggled me into my canopy misquote net bed in my 20/20ish spacious room
(def not what I expected). Gulu, thank you THANK YOU for having me.
Between Monday and today I’ve become acquainted with the market place
where you can find flying ants that are the size of macaroni noodles,
bleeding headless pigs, sandals made out of tires, and probably any
item out of a house from the TV show Hoaders. Against my best
efforts, I definitely had “Amberican” written across my forehead as I
repeatedly handed shop keepers 5,000 shillings thinking it was 50,000
shillings and vice versa. Skinny jeans and leggings are a no here.
I’m really enjoying "swimming" in my below the knee loose skirts,
however I’ve had some difficult mounting the boda bodas without
flashing the greater part of the Gulu village (whups:/).
Some fun facts: “stubborn” here describes someone who is active and
outgoing. When a boda driver says “flash me,” leave your top on - it
means “call me.” A lot of the Ugandan native Luo or Acholi language has
English words with different meanings, such as “bean” – come, “ping” –
sit, and “pee” – water haa. All my senses are over loaded here,
smells, sounds, sights, tastes… relishing in it all.
As much as I have enjoyed getting familiar with Gulu, as you know
there are a lot of intense sights that I can’t fail to touch upon.
It’s those moments that capture the reality and raw and fragile
essence of life.
It’s not uncommon to see locals who have had reconstructive surgery on
their lips, nose, and ears to undo the mutilations done by the LRA 2
decades ago. Let me reassure all of you that Uganda is safe now and
still known as the “pearl” of Africa and home to the world’s
friendliest people as you’ll find stated in any travel book.
Fourth of July was my first day at Mercy’s Village Primary. I still
can’t contain the grin that the 136 students gave me when they sang
their welcome song. I recognized many of them from pictures and was
instantly immersed. One of the first questions Sarah asked me was
“How strong is your stomach?” Just up until last month MV’s infirmary
lacked vital supplies and staff. MV’s team recent visit left Mercy’s
Primary stocked with band aids, anti-fungal creams, swabs, children’s
meds, and other essential resources. I didn’t exactly answer her
question but assured her “I’ll do it.” Shortly after the warm
introduction all children with wounds were sent to the infirmary.
Wounds? These were not wounds. Maybe at one point these children had
what was a small cut or burn, but from neglect and infection the
exacerbated sight, smell, and texture was now the size of a crusted
half dollar. Talk about tolerance. These three 8 year old boys did NOT
wince, whine, or shed a single tear as Sarah and I cleaned, emphasis
on cllllleaned and dressed their exposed flesh. I think I’ve found my
new role models. Additionally, a daily task I am happy to do will be
to apply anti-fungal cream to the large majority of students who have
white spots on their scalps, which is a side effect of ring worm.
Don’t let that fool you though; these are the HAPPIEST kids on the
planet!! Their smiles, positive disposition, and energy are contagious and
addicting. They LOVE high fives and are even pulling fist pounds on
me!
You’ll be happy to know this Beach successfully transported 2 dozen
deviled eggs on the back of a motorcycle to a home grown Gulu 4th of
July BBQ where about 30some of us American mush pot 20-30something
year olds grilled burgers, brauts, drank Tusker beer, and blew things
up HA! (Sound familiar?;)
Until next round remember, wake up every morning feeling grateful
(especially for your health), keep your toenails clipped, and transparent
pink ketchup is not too shabby!
Ciao LA!
NILE
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