Tuesday, July 24, 2012

Biggest Challenge

To answer a lot of your questions about what I eat here...sorry to disappoint
but it's not bugs and bark. The traditional Acholi dish is called posho.
Posho is made out of maize that resembles the consistency of mashed potatoes,
usually paired with beans. Corn and coffee are the major crops grown in Gulu
(if only wine were a major crop here I'd be 3 for 3;). Street vendors are overflowing
with roasted, steamed, and popped corn for purchase. Those who know me,
yes I'm in heaven! There is one super market Uchumi where you can find
mooost of the basics minus variety, cheese, cinnamon, and a hair brush ha.
Any fruits, veg, beans, peanut butter, and “fresh” meat are only found in the
outdoor markets. Indian and Ethiopian restaurants are common and notorious for
food comas. Ethiopian food is my new fav cuisine (Um, hello? You get to eat with
your hands). Mmm!


-I’ve become desensitized to cockroaches, dirt and mud soiling
e-v-e-r-y-thing, the smell of insect repellent, and getting “pet” in
public.
-Did I mention I love Ethiopian food?
-The 5 mi. bike ride to school at dawn has become the favorite part of my day.
-Think of the most selfless person you know and multiply his/her selflessness
by 10 - that sort of person is who you find here - everywhere.
-My toenails have never looked worse and I think I may have forgotten
how to use a blow dryer. What’s make-up again?
-Termite mounds tower taller than doorways.
-Refridgerators are merely a place to store drinks.
-Public toilets = holes in the ground.
-Heart throb Back Street Boys, Celine Dion, and Dolly Parton blare out
of local businesses daily.
-Sweet potatoes here put ours to shame!
-Oh yeah, and I'm obsessed with Ethiopian food.

The sight of 2 men or 2 women holding hands regardless of color is
widely accepted. Holding hands with the opposite sex is frowned
upon and could result in a beating. Beating is a common form of
discipline and punishment in the home, on the streets, and in the
classroom (however prohibited at Mercy’s Village Primary and other
American non-profit schools). You refer to any acquaintance as “my
sister, my brother, or my friend” and not asking “How are you?” in
your initial greeting is considered offensive. Arranged marriages are
practiced and respected. Women are worth money, property, cattle,
goats, and chickens even.

Acholi names are fascinating. At birth you’re given your
birth name describing the circumstance which you were born under
(some are brutally honest and very sad "born into slavery")
or order among siblings. Birth names are also one's surname and
written first. You are also given your first name, which are
mostly British derivatives…Grace, Isabella, Paul, Steward.
At the age of 15 you are allowed to go to the church,
get baptized, and change your first name if you choose.


Biggest challenge: practicing patience. Not every business sticks to
their hours of operation, remains open when it’s raining, or has
school exams prepared when expected by. Showing up an hour late to a
meeting isn’t out of the ordinary nor is waiting an hour and a half
for steamed veggies. Anything wet takes 3 days to dry. Printing 136
surveys can take up to 4 separate visits to the copy store. And my
personal fav, just because you’re at the electrical company to pay
your bill does not guarantee they’ll be able to complete your transaction
when the power is out ha. Abandoning my American standards has been
challenging but it is necessary unless you want to walk around with your
panties in a wad all day (very uncomfortable). Overall, these tests have
been a vital learning experience to be mindful and respectful of cultural
norms and to always have a sense of humor. Phew. A common phrase
my fellow Muzungus and I exchange is “T.I.A. baby” – this is Africa.
And cheers to that! If you’re in need of a moment to gripe and groan,
because let’s be honest we’re all human, set yourself to 2 mins. and spill.
Speaking of… my 2 are up.

Even though the smallest of tasks take on average twice to thrice as
long, I have never lived a more simple life. Priorities are
clear and distractions are few. It’s brilliant. Don’t get me wrong,
I’ve def scoped out the cheapest bottle of wine in town and am not
afraid to share it over a game of Taboo;)…but it’s the absence of
“stuff” that I’m suddenly without that has allowed me to hoan in on
what I actually need on a daily basis. What I actually need in life
materialistically, socially, emotionally, physically, spiritually...very
refreshing. Having less stuff also doubles the value of the anything
you do have. With that said, my second favorite part of the day:
devouring 2 Trader Joes children's chewable gummy bear vitamins.

In the words of my 5 y.o niece Jaden Beach Scott, “Patience my
darling.” Be flexible, be creative, and wake up every morning feeling
grateful. AMEN.


 
Posho, beans, boo, sweet potatos, casava, and chicken
 
 
(yummy)
 
 
Last day of Term II!
 

FULL Body Massage

I’ve gotten pretty used to the sight of brown Q-tip heads.  Riding
around on the back of bodas plus unpaved roads is the perfect dirty
lobe recipe.  Power has been out for 24 hrs. now but it’s actually
quite entertaining to walk around in head lamps in your own living
room gathered around candle sticks.  80 degrees and POURING out.  It’s
typical for our flat to flood even though we’re located on the second
floor ha.

I have an entirely new appreciation for personnel in the medical field
after staring down the throats of 136 students to check their tonsils
for respiratory inflammation.  In all honesty, the kiddos got a kick out of
me more than anything as I repeatedly reflected to them what I wanted
them to do with their mouths.  I wouldn’t be surprised if they think
their newest Muzungu was part baboon.  “Now say, ‘AHHH, ok AHHH.”  Failed
communication attempts bring daily entertainment.  One of our teachers
is expecting and I asked her, “When are you due?”  She heard, “Who did
this to you?” and then pointed across to a colleague and said,
“Definitely not him!”  Gossip in the teacher’s lounge is very similar
to what you would hear in the states.  Teachers bribing each other to
take their less desirable shifts, students, etc.  Priceless.

Despite my lack of training and qualification, along with tonsillitis
I’m becoming familiar with the symptoms of malaria AKA the common cold
in East Africa.  Had a 9 y.o boy come to me saying his head hurt and
within seconds took his temperature to discover he had a temp of
103.3!:( Fever = major symptom of malaria.  Unfortunately, MV’s small
infirmary does not carry the antibiotics to cure malaria, which if
diagnosed early is a onetime 3 dose remedy.  I know 2 US volunteers
who are on Doxycycline (anti-malaria med - mine too) that have caught
malaria and have made a full, although exhausting recovery, which is
discouraging yet comforting at the same time lol.  Locals do not take
anti-malaria meds.  I met a safari tour guide who has had it 7 times!
*Remind me to take de-worming tablets once I return to the states.
It’s standard procedure here every 3 months for EVERYONE.  The
government issues out tabs to all the schools 4x/year.  Yay no worms!

-I’m proud to announce that as of Sunday this Beach can (Mom cover
your ears…err eyes) operate a boda motor bike (with little to no
falling) SOLO!
-In the past week I have been proposed to 4 times.  It was def hard to
turn down the 80 y.o man with no teeth.
-Ugandan masseuses aren’t lying about “FULL body massage” as I kindly
had to remind her to leave my boobs alone.
-Avocados here could fill a size D cup and onions are the size of ping
pong balls.
-Beer costs the equivalent to $1.50 for a 150ml bottle where mustard
costs $8 US dollars.
-Giraffes have no vocal cords and if you plan to safari in the future,
baboons are way scarier than lions AND Amber driving a boda combined.
-One word: EvangelicalGospelChurchesAreAwesome!!  Had my first
“Southern” church experience – WOW.  For those of you familiar with
the scene from Forrest Gump where he participates in the gospel choir.
That was me.

My stroked ego has to admit to feeling like a bit of a celebrity here
walking/riding around with a trail of African children in my shadow.
By far my most happiest moment yet.  They SO just want to touch, wave,
and yell “Mono (slang for white person) how’re you?!”  I’ve also had
the pleasure of speaking with some of the Invisible Children’s
survivors who are no more than a year or two older than me.  I’ve
read, seen, and heard of their God awful experiences, BUT being in
their presence and knowing what they’ve seen; and THEN hearing them
speak of the power of forgiveness and loving thy enemy…can you say
Purple Heart - Medal of Honor x100 sweepstake winners!?!  That doesn't
even do them justice...still get chills.

*If you know of any eager beaver med school students interested and up
for a nursing internship in UG, PLEASE let me know.
**If you would like to sponsor a child or go in with someone to
sponsor a child - sponosrs welcome!

As always, wake up every morning feeling grateful (even for that way
too early alarm, cold shower, and rush hour traffic); and let go of
that rusty grudge and FORGIVE for the Invisible Childrens' sake.
 
 
MVP's infermary and Beach's temp office
 
 
Mercy second from the left
 

Flash Me

Returning home from my second day at Mercy’s Village Primary, there is a
 “buzz” in the air (sound of generators), which can only mean one
thing – power is out! (again) ha.  Sarah, the MV country director (my
roommate and personal tour guide for the week) tells our fellow boda boda
(motorcycle taxi) driver to B line it to the local Coffee Hut, which thankfully
always runs off a generator.  No surprise to see the place overflowing
with fellow Muzugus (white people) just getting off work from other
philanthropic organizations such as Invisible Children, Krochet Kids,
31 Bits, LRA Research personnel, photographers, camera peeps, and heaps
more.

My concept of time still escapes me.  A week ago I was taking
advantage of Hermosa Beach's Ocean Bar’s free vodka sodas – a’hem, I
mean concentrating on packing.  Sarah collected me Monday morning in
Kampala after almost 72 hours of travel time with over 160 lbs. of
luggage still in one piece (wahoo!) to make the 5 hr. trek to Gulu.
Kampala is Uganda’s capital that reeks of car exhaust, a hint of dung,
and smelly airplane girl – oh, wait that was me.  I didn’t think it
was possible but I can now say with confidence that I have experienced
far worse traffic than the infamous 405.  JEEPERS.   After having a
(way) better than American breakfast burrito, a stop at the shopping
“mall” where a box of Kelloggs Corn Flakes is 20,000 shillings - $10!,
we caught a glimpse of Lake Victoria and proceeded to sweat ourselves
silly due North.  I woke abruptly to the sound of shawdy tires on a
shackled bridge looking at what appeared to be Niagra Falls – The Nile
River.  I had to turn my head a full 180 in order to catch sight of
the vast width of deadly rapids.  Absolutely MASSIVE.

Goats, chickens, and barefoot toddlers welcomed us to the Ivory Guest
House and home for the next 4 months where our local guard
Mzee one handedly lopped my +70lbs. suitcase over his shoulder without
a flinch! WHAAA?!  Baby cockroaches greeted us at our apartment and
snuggled me into my canopy misquote net bed in my 20/20ish spacious room
(def not what I expected).  Gulu, thank you THANK YOU for having me.

Between Monday and today I’ve become acquainted with the market place
where you can find flying ants that are the size of macaroni noodles,
bleeding headless pigs, sandals made out of tires, and probably any
item out of a house from the TV show Hoaders.  Against my best
efforts, I definitely had “Amberican” written across my forehead as I
repeatedly handed shop keepers 5,000 shillings thinking it was 50,000
shillings and vice versa.  Skinny jeans and leggings are a no here.
I’m really enjoying "swimming" in my below the knee loose skirts,
however I’ve had some difficult mounting the boda bodas without
flashing the greater part of the Gulu village (whups:/).

Some fun facts: “stubborn” here describes someone who is active and
outgoing.  When a boda driver says “flash me,” leave your top on - it
means “call me.”  A lot of the Ugandan native Luo or Acholi language has
English words with different meanings, such as “bean” – come, “ping” –
sit, and “pee” – water haa.  All my senses are over loaded here,
smells, sounds, sights, tastes… relishing in it all.

As much as I have enjoyed getting familiar with Gulu, as you know
there are a lot of intense sights that I can’t fail to touch upon.
It’s those moments that capture the reality and raw and fragile
essence of life.

It’s not uncommon to see locals who have had reconstructive surgery on
their lips, nose, and ears to undo the mutilations done by the LRA 2
decades ago.  Let me reassure all of you that Uganda is safe now and
still known as the “pearl” of Africa and home to the world’s
friendliest people as you’ll find stated in any travel book.

Fourth of July was my first day at Mercy’s Village Primary.  I still
can’t contain the grin that the 136 students gave me when they sang
their welcome song.  I recognized many of them from pictures and was
instantly immersed.  One of the first questions Sarah asked me was
“How strong is your stomach?”  Just up until last month MV’s infirmary
lacked vital supplies and staff.  MV’s team recent visit left Mercy’s
Primary stocked with band aids, anti-fungal creams, swabs, children’s
meds, and other essential resources.  I didn’t exactly answer her
question but assured her “I’ll do it.”  Shortly after the warm
introduction all children with wounds were sent to the infirmary.
Wounds?  These were not wounds.  Maybe at one point these children had
what was a small cut or burn, but from neglect and infection the
exacerbated sight, smell, and texture was now the size of a crusted
half dollar.  Talk about tolerance.  These three 8 year old boys did NOT
wince, whine, or shed a single tear as Sarah and I cleaned, emphasis
on cllllleaned and dressed their exposed flesh.  I think I’ve found my
new role models.  Additionally, a daily task I am happy to do will be
to apply anti-fungal cream to the large majority of students who have
white spots on their scalps, which is a side effect of ring worm.
Don’t let that fool you though; these are the HAPPIEST kids on the
planet!!  Their smiles, positive disposition, and energy are contagious and
addicting.  They LOVE high fives and are even pulling fist pounds on
me!

You’ll be happy to know this Beach successfully transported 2 dozen
deviled eggs on the back of a motorcycle to a home grown Gulu 4th of
July BBQ where about 30some of us American mush pot 20-30something
year olds grilled burgers, brauts, drank Tusker beer, and blew things
up HA! (Sound familiar?;)

Until next round remember, wake up every morning feeling grateful
(especially for your health), keep your toenails clipped, and transparent
pink ketchup is not too shabby!

 
 
Ciao LA!
 
 
NILE