Monday, October 29, 2012

Always Remember Gulu

Grab some coffee (or wine), maybe a tissue, and some time 'cos this one’s a fatty.

I savor moments when there're 8 of us piled in a friend’s co Land Rover and not one of us are from the same country.  A’s replace R’s from the Kiwi, deep clipped syllables from thee Irish, pinkies up from the Brit, flat vowels from Beacher, rolling exotic rrr’s from the Costa Rican, 2 something's on the roof yelling profanity in their native tongue as we quickly dodge a goat, and the Ugandan thinking we all sound the same lol.  Much banter between us mates includes playful ridicule of what exactly IS the proper pronunciation of “glacier,” “aluminum,” or “tomato”…hilarious.

Uganda celebrated 50 years of INDEPENDENCE on Oct. 9th – Golden Jubilee!!  “Focus on the good, not on the bad.”  This small country has endured more intolerable traumatic devastation than the whole world combined since the Holocaust in the past half century.  Yet, the Acholi’s optimism and hopeful disposition towards the future is…truly indescribable.  I’ve nnnever witnessed a belief – an emotional connection more powerful.  The radiant wholesome goodness that overflows from their hearts is something that could only be found in those who have been in the presence of the most evil acts of mankind.  I can’t explain it.  There’s some sort of balance to it all that’s been established from this enormous rival of good vs. evil.   Uganda is living proof that the Acholi’s spirituality and prevailing faith is indeed strong enough to defeat the malevolence of the war. 
…Perhaps none of that made sense.  And many may think I’m preaching here, but that’s the best – the only way I can say it. 


African trivia – “Afrivia” for the day:
-         The average life expectancy has gone up from 45 to 53 in the past 20 years.
-         There are 2 words for “heart” in the Acholi language.  One for the organ and one for the emotion.
-         At burial services, the dead cannot be dressed in the color red because it attracts evil, nor can they be clothed in buttons because they are uncomfortable.  If it rains on the day of the burial a small animal must be sacrificed.
-         Three generations ago tradition prohibited women from eating any type of bird meat.
-         Maternity leave for teachers in Uganda is 3 to 6 weeks.
-         Amber loves Gulu: Fact. 

Gulu welcomed mama and sis with no power-no water and fresh-roach-hatchling-infestation open arms. Right on cue:).  Mounting bodas, playing exterminator, bucket bathing… ma and sis were naturals!  Delivering donations, volunteering at Baby Watoto, art lessons at Mercy’s Village, celebrating Uganda’s Independence Day, Murchison Falls, and birding at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is all a blur and yet the perfect memory at the same time.

I am one lucky Beach. My pal put it in perspective best, “Man, your fam must really love you to come and visit you in the slums of a third world country.”  Humbled.
That comment also sparked a life moment...“slums of a third world country”…:  I would rather be surrounded by poverty, the smell of sewage, unreliable sources of power - water, and yes…even roaches in conjunction with the most honest, SOULful, and zealous people THAN be surrounded by a land of luxury and paradise with, for lack of a better word, meanies.  Slummin’ lovin’ baby.
Time doesn’t fly here. Time super sonic booms here.
The daunting echo of my November 5th departure feels like the date of a huge exam I am not prepared for.   I envy those with 2+ year contracts.
My last week in Gulu resembles that of a clingy gf pained to say good bye to her significant other. Gulu, I will be obsessing over you for the next 7 days.  Expect a range of temperamental emotions, unpredictable minor breakdowns, too much picture taking, and therapeutic glasses (bottles) of wine.
When my sis asked what I missed most about the states, by default I responded with the usu “lattes, showers, unlimited internet…” shpeel but actually, all I could think about was an endless list of what I will miss most about Gulu…

-         Crisp morning bike rides to school (rockin’ out!)
-         Students singing during assembly
-         Greeting the teachers
-         Isaac politely reminding me that we should be walking on the other side of the road
-         Isaac…and Isaac
-         “Mono bye-eee!”
-         My Coffee Hut corner
-         waking to roosters
-         music 24/8
-         roasted maize
-         twenty-five cent softball size avocados from Cerelano market
-     CHOP MY MONEY
-         Mama Mercy’s beans
-         Club beer
-         passion fruit
-         Sankofa's Spanish omelet
-         Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant
-         Uchumi popcorn
-         Top Up chili sauce
-         doorman Mzee
-         faking like I know what I’m doing at Texas Hold’em poker night
-         muddy frisbee
-         boda lessons from Kenneth
-         patting the tight curls on the students’ heads
-         Mexican Night
-         Losing at BJz Quiz Night 
-         Acholi women’s traditional “AY-YAAA’YAAA’YAAA’YAAA”
-         Swapping music with Denish
-         sunbathing Sunday’s at Acholi Inn
-         headlamp Game Nights
-         The view from my office
-         And…gossiping with Godfrey
Goodbye - or shall I say see you later… bucket baths, candle lit cooking, mosquito net, roach roomies, line dry laundry, generators, orange Q-tips, flooded apartment, pot holes, right Havianna, dirty fingernails, hovering over holes in the ground, tsetse flies, warm Coke Zeros, pink ketchup,Chaco tan lines, water purifier, mystery bug bites, day long downloads, instant coffee, posho, Nokia phone from ’04, sleepless Ivory Guest House Bar, the Post Bus, and Doom… It is not a matter of if but when I will see you all again.

My coworker Densih will be stepping in with Isaac.  I am going to Isaac’s village to share a farewell meal with his family.  Isaac now has a mountain bike:).  I think I may be more excited about it than him haha.  He is also enjoying a brand new basketball, my old iPod from '02 (complete with Amber's teeny bop jams from 10 yrs. ago - how embarassing!;), and hand-me-down trendy shirts from the states.  Thank you, THANK YOU, mama, sis, and Cody!

I hope (I have) to return this summer with a team that visits Mercy’s Village annually.  There is no question that I will remain actively involved with Mercy’s Village International from its El Segundo location in CA. 
This marks my final entry in Uganda:(.  Un’freakin’believeable.  I have really enjoyed exercising my lost hobby for writing via UGAMBER ALERT.  Many thank you’s are in order for your kind compliments and interest.  Touched.  (Feels like I’m on stage receiving an award…but) To the 80some helping hearts who got me here…I am in a worrrld/universe of debt to you.  SINCERE thanks, hugs, and UG love!  Will be tackling you all in person when we’re reunited - wearing padded protection may be advisable…you’ve been warned. 

Dear God, You gave me the gift of living and loving one of Your finest creations – Uganda.  Struggling to find words that can amount to express my eternal gratitude…
Right now at this very moment I feel the soft weight of teacher Florence’s baby Eliza asleep on my lap. Hear bees, birds, and children buzz outside my office door.  Smell the hardwood cells of my desk opening up in the afternoon heat.  And of course, Orbit gum in my mouth and twirling a piece of hair in my fingers. (Remember this moment…remember this moment… e v e r y t h i n g  about this moment).  Always remember Gulu. 

“It’s gonna take a life to drag me away from you…
There’s nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do…
I (was) blessed (by) the rains down in Africa…” 

#gratefulGratefulGRATEFUL 
 
 

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