Always Remember Gulu

Grab some coffee (or wine), maybe a tissue, and some time 'cos this one’s a fatty.

I savor moments when there're 8 of us piled in a friend’s co Land Rover and not one of us are from the same country.  A’s replace R’s from the Kiwi, deep clipped syllables from thee Irish, pinkies up from the Brit, flat vowels from Beacher, rolling exotic rrr’s from the Costa Rican, 2 something's on the roof yelling profanity in their native tongue as we quickly dodge a goat, and the Ugandan thinking we all sound the same lol.  Much banter between us mates includes playful ridicule of what exactly IS the proper pronunciation of “glacier,” “aluminum,” or “tomato”…hilarious.

Uganda celebrated 50 years of INDEPENDENCE on Oct. 9^th – Golden Jubilee!!  “Focus on the good, not on the bad.”  This small country has endured more intolerable traumatic devastation than the whole world combined since the Holocaust in the past half century.  Yet, the Acholi’s optimism and hopeful disposition towards the future is…truly indescribable.  I’ve nnnever witnessed a belief – an emotional connection more powerful.  The radiant wholesome goodness that overflows from their hearts is something that could only be found in those who have been in the presence of the most evil acts of mankind.  I can’t explain it.  There’s some sort of balance to it all that’s been established from this enormous rival of good vs. evil.   Uganda is living proof that the Acholi’s spirituality and prevailing faith is indeed strong enough to defeat the malevolence of the war. 
…Perhaps none of that made sense.  And many may think I’m preaching here, but that’s the best – the only way I can say it. 

African trivia – “Afrivia” for the day:

-         The average life expectancy has gone up from 45 to 53 in the past 20 years.

-         There are 2 words for “heart” in the Acholi language.  One for the organ and one for the emotion.

-         At burial services, the dead cannot be dressed in the color red because it attracts evil, nor can they be clothed in buttons because they are uncomfortable.  If it rains on the day of the burial a small animal must be sacrificed.

-         Three generations ago tradition prohibited women from eating any type of bird meat.

-         Maternity leave for teachers in Uganda is 3 to 6 weeks.

-         Amber loves Gulu: Fact. 

Gulu welcomed mama and sis with no power-no water and fresh-roach-hatchling-infestation open arms. Right on cue:).  Mounting bodas, playing exterminator, bucket bathing… ma and sis were naturals!  Delivering donations, volunteering at Baby Watoto, art lessons at Mercy’s Village, celebrating Uganda’s Independence Day, Murchison Falls, and birding at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary is all a blur and yet the perfect memory at the same time.

I am one lucky Beach. My pal put it in perspective best, “Man, your fam must really love you to come and visit you in the slums of a third world country.”  Humbled.

That comment also sparked a life moment...“slums of a third world country”…:  I would rather be surrounded by poverty, the smell of sewage, unreliable sources of power - water, and yes…even roaches in conjunction with the most honest, SOULful, and zealous people THAN be surrounded by a land of luxury and paradise with, for lack of a better word, meanies.  Slummin’ lovin’ baby.

Time doesn’t fly here. Time super sonic booms here.

The daunting echo of my November 5^th departure feels like the date of a huge exam I am not prepared for.   I envy those with 2+ year contracts.

My last week in Gulu resembles that of a clingy gf pained to say good bye to her significant other. Gulu, I will be obsessing over you for the next 7 days.  Expect a range of temperamental emotions, unpredictable minor breakdowns, too much picture taking, and therapeutic glasses (bottles) of wine.

When my sis asked what I missed most about the states, by default I responded with the usu “lattes, showers, unlimited internet…” shpeel but actually, all I could think about was an endless list of what I will miss most about Gulu…

-         Crisp morning bike rides to school (rockin’ out!)

-         Students singing during assembly

-         Greeting the teachers

-         Isaac politely reminding me that we should be walking on the other side of the road

-         Isaac…and Isaac

-         “Mono bye-eee!”

-         My Coffee Hut corner

-         waking to roosters

-         music 24/8

-         roasted maize

-         twenty-five cent softball size avocados from Cerelano market

-     CHOP MY MONEY

-         Mama Mercy’s beans

-         Club beer

-         passion fruit

-         Sankofa's Spanish omelet

-         Abyssinia Ethiopian Restaurant

-         Uchumi popcorn

-         Top Up chili sauce

-         doorman Mzee

-         faking like I know what I’m doing at Texas Hold’em poker night

-         muddy frisbee

-         boda lessons from Kenneth

-         patting the tight curls on the students’ heads

-         Mexican Night

-         Losing at BJz Quiz Night 

-         Acholi women’s traditional “AY-YAAA’YAAA’YAAA’YAAA”

-         Swapping music with Denish

-         sunbathing Sunday’s at Acholi Inn

-         headlamp Game Nights

-         The view from my office

-         And…gossiping with Godfrey

Goodbye - or shall I say see you later… bucket baths, candle lit cooking, mosquito net, roach roomies, line dry laundry, generators, orange Q-tips, flooded apartment, pot holes, right Havianna, dirty fingernails, hovering over holes in the ground, tsetse flies, warm Coke Zeros, pink ketchup,Chaco tan lines, water purifier, mystery bug bites, day long downloads, instant coffee, posho, Nokia phone from ’04, sleepless Ivory Guest House Bar, the Post Bus, and Doom… It is not a matter of if but when I will see you all again.

My coworker Densih will be stepping in with Isaac.  I am going to Isaac’s village to share a farewell meal with his family.  Isaac now has a mountain bike:).  I think I may be more excited about it than him haha.  He is also enjoying a brand new basketball, my old iPod from '02 (complete with Amber's teeny bop jams from 10 yrs. ago - how embarassing!;), and hand-me-down trendy shirts from the states.  Thank you, THANK YOU, mama, sis, and Cody!

I hope (I have) to return this summer with a team that visits Mercy’s Village annually.  There is no question that I will remain actively involved with Mercy’s Village International from its El Segundo location in CA. 

This marks my final entry in Uganda:(.  Un’freakin’believeable.  I have really enjoyed exercising my lost hobby for writing via UGAMBER ALERT.  Many thank you’s are in order for your kind compliments and interest.  Touched.  (Feels like I’m on stage receiving an award…but) To the 80some helping hearts who got me here…I am in a worrrld/universe of debt to you.  SINCERE thanks, hugs, and UG love!  Will be tackling you all in person when we’re reunited - wearing padded protection may be advisable…you’ve been warned. 

Dear God, You gave me the gift of living and loving one of Your finest creations – Uganda.  Struggling to find words that can amount to express my eternal gratitude…

Right now at this very moment I feel the soft weight of teacher Florence’s baby Eliza asleep on my lap. Hear bees, birds, and children buzz outside my office door.  Smell the hardwood cells of my desk opening up in the afternoon heat.  And of course, Orbit gum in my mouth and twirling a piece of hair in my fingers. (Remember this moment…remember this moment… e v e r y t h i n g  about this moment).  Always remember Gulu. 

“It’s gonna take a life to drag me away from you…

There’s nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do…

I (was) blessed (by) the rains down in Africa…” 

#gratefulGratefulGRATEFUL 

 

 

Altitude "Silliness"

I don’t want to leave…

I know I’m only 26, but am confident I will never top the intimate
working relationships I have established with the teachers, parents,
students, and of course, with Isaac here in Gulu.

There is something uniquely loveable about Gulu that’s addicting.  I’ve
never been in the military but the people I’ve met here will forever
be the ones I “worked the trenches with.”  Creating fruitful solid
relationships is instantaneous here – there’s something about us all
being on the same level of understanding and compassion in regards to
water shortage, stomach issues, bug bites, power being out, comparing
whose feet are the dirtiest/scariest ha.  If Hermosa Beach’s 1st
Street to Pier Ave. breed were to exist in Africa, Gulu would be the
perfect location to host y’all;).

MT. KENYA– check!!  Funny how “I need to leave the country to renew my
Visa” morphed into “Let’s climb Africa’s second highest mountain!
SURE.”   What a beautiful beast.   She was intense – and yes, we also,
stayed “in tents” (step-dad Chubb, that was for you).

If Yosemite and the Grand Canyon were to procreate, Mt. Kenya would be
the fruit of their lions. Felt like I was on the set of Lord of the
Rings. I think I may have even resembled Gandolf with my frosted nose
hairs.   Breathtaking (and not just because of the altitude) scenery.
Shared the mountain with elephants, zebras, bald eagles…found my new
happy place.

Typically you see groups of 8 or more hikers plus a guide and about 8
porters on the mountain. We were 6 total – me, my UGA partner in
crime, our guide, and 3 porters. We made quite the fashion statement
in our random ensemble of barrowed thermals and bargin finds from the
local markets – mismatched gloves and plastic bags as a second pair of
socks to keep our feet dry. Snazzy. We looked like homeless women
whom suddenly decided to climb a mountain.

The porters put us to shame carrying triple the standard backpack
weight, leaving basecamp last and arriving first at the next in
rain boots and trash bag ponchos. These ultimate humans summit Mt.
Kenya once a week! Never even phased by the high elevation or below
zero temperatures. Insane.

With only minor miiinor frostbite in one toe*, my mate and I summited
Mt. Kenya and finished the 6 day Chogoria – Sirimon traverse a day
early. YIPPEE.
*No discoloration like in the movie Mr. Deeds ha. Only numbness for
prob 3 months until the damaged nerves repair themselves.

- Altitude Sickness should really be called Altitude ‘Silliness’: “An
enhanced dorkier and gigglier state one reaches at elevations above
15,000 ft. Symptoms include attempting to slide down the mountain on
your bottom, making up words, calling your guide “Mom,” thinking
boulders are water buffalo, and/or sticking your hands down your
pants to keep them warm.”
- Grocery bags make great waterproof gators.
- Orbit gum freezes at 17,000 ft.
- Sleeping bags can stick to the interior of tent walls like Harry
Dun’s tongue froze to a chairlift in Dumb’n’Dumber.
- Lord of the Rings IV should be filmed on Mt. Kenya.
- Oranges are green here...'greenges'(?)

Super stoked to have my mama and sis join me in Uganda for 2 weeks!!
Although, not too sure my 5 year old niece shares the same sentiments. “Aunt
Tootie, 12 days is a long time for my mom to be gone. I’m not too
excited about that.” Jaden, thank you for allowing (releasing) your
mom to come visit me lol.

Goobers in Gulu – watch out!  Don’t worry, we HAVE scheduled a Birding
Tour for mama dearest (that I may combine with wine to create the
ultimate Birding/Wine Tour – twofer!). Can’t remember the last time it
was just Rosie, Marika, and Amber (or mama, Booka, and Tootie – that’s
better)...‘02 road trip to CO to drop off Marika’s 4-Runner where we
discovered Amber has a severe learning disability when it comes to
reading maps…?  Ages ago, however, I may or may not still read maps
up-side-down. Opps.  "Dys'map'ia"..?

HAPPY 18th BIRTHDAY to ISAAC!! He was born on September 22.
Forgive me for the delay in his Thank You letters to you Isaac
sponsors…it was going to cost $80US to mail them from UG, which I
could not justify, so I have volunteered my mom to take them back to
the states to mail. Unfortunately, the same circumstance applies to
the 70-some lovely letters Mercy’s Village Primary Students wrote to
each of you. Thank you for your patience:/. And to clarify, I
HAPPILY incurred $1,200.00 in debt (absolutely worth it) to pay for
Mt. Kenya – none of your donations were used for my “holiday”:). IF
anyone IS interested in hiking Mt. Kenya, Kilimanjaro, and/or
safari’ing, I have dear friends/guides in Tanzania and Kenya I can
refer you to.

Isaac’s becoming MY role model. His work ethic surpasses the
definition of inspiring.  Don’t even get me started on his pain
threshold/tolerance. Last month his voice started to sound
deeper than usual, but I figured it was an additional onset of his
voice dropping..? Come to find out, he’s been experiencing
excruciating pain in his throat for years; for which he was visiting a
local village witch doctor to receive "treatment." So I scheduled him
an actual doctor’s appointment. Poor guy was battling asthma for
years with no medication, until now.  His voice is back to normal
and he is eating solid foods again. Super-super-duper hero Isaac.

With that said, for his birthday/before I leave I want to provide him
with a bike so he can have transportation to Lacor Hospital and to his
village (hr+ walk from school). A decent bike is about 250,000
shillings ($100US). He has $230.00 remaining in his School Fees
Fund, which should be enough to cover Term I in Senior 5 come March.
In addition to requesting yet another monthly donation on Isaac’s
behalf, I couldn't pass up the opportunity to
provide you all - anyone - with the link to make a donation to
Isaac…perhaps in lieu of a “birthday gift,” compensation for medical
fees, or to support his education.

Any amount is appreciated:
https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=RZYSSUTTA4888

I’m starting to wonder if my parents adopted me from Africa because
Uganda is family. However, the stubby thumbs I inherited from my
mom make that highly unlikely.

(A little bird told me Amber may be staying yet another extra month in Uganda...shhh.)

One word, wakeupeverymorningfeelinggrateful.

Joe Anderson, my dear friend and fellow Loyola lion… I’ve
never met someone who knew more about Mammoth Mountain and Bishop.
Will always cherish sharing last President’s Day Weekend with you on
the slopes. Always looking out for me. Much, much, love…


Beacher

 

 

Zebra Crossing

Is it too late to decide that I want to become a “rafter” when I grow up?

Juggling two bags and something hanging off every one of my limbs (I may as well have been Waldo), I eagerly waited for my boda to collect me at 6am to commence my weekend getaway to Jinja to white water raft the Nile!  The main thrill of my approaching weekend was obviously rafting, however, there IS something to be said about surviving the 7 hour trek TO Jinja on a hand-me-down charter bus from the 90’s. 

Waldo boarded the Post Bus solo to stake out her territory, which she discovered was absolutely pointless because along with cheese, personal space does not exist in Uganda.  Don’t be surprised if the back seat sleeve commonly used for storing magazines is now a storage space for your neighbor’s shoes, or if your neighbor is a chicken.  Sitting shoulder to shoulder would have been luxurious compared to the clavicle to clavicle seating arrangement.  Thankfully, the windows were so dirty that you can’t exactly see the road or lack thereof as we connected the dots from asphalt patch to asphalt patch to Kampala. 

Opening your window during one of the few stops in route is an open invite for vendors to stuff your face with suspicious kebabs, live chickens, and roasted bananas (not bad).   At the only potty stop, expect to pay 200 shillings to an unauthorized doorman so you can hover over a hole in the ground.  Hands down, quote of the day, “Excuse me sir, but I think that is my chicken.”
 
For Kampala being more polluted than Los Angeles, to my surprise, it was quite comforting and familiar to be in the presence of electricity, noise, and traffic again.  A friend of a friend’s boda awaited my arrival to carry me dripping in accessories to the next leg of my trip: the Matoto bus park. 

Even though it was only a 10 min. ride, I think I managed to pray for God’s protection about 100 times as my driver and I snaked throughout the swarm of other bodas, buses, and even cows.  Thankfully, my ignorant big mouth was able to lighten the mood when after passing a “ZEBRA CROSSING” road sign I confidently blurted out, “There are no zebras in Kampala!”  After gathering himself, my boda informed me that zebra crossing refers to pedestrian crossing as the lines on the road are black and white.  Damn...

The Matato “bus” park was a circus - right down to the sight of an unfathomable amount of people pouring out of a van like clowns.  Easily a thousand of these vans, which no doubt were what your parents drove when they were hippies cluttered an abandoned soccer field.  Amidst all the drivers auctioning off their “special” price from every direction, I managed to pair up with my fellow Muzungu pals and the six of us plus six more randoms squeezed ourselves into a nine seater.  Lovely, ha.

Jinja is the Palos Verdes of LA.  Green, lush, scenic, and clean.  The Nile River Camp where we stayed had to have been designed by a boy scout because this place was an adult jungle gym!  Platforms just big enough for your full size 2 person tent strategically lined the slope of a hill that perfectly overlooked the Nile.  Awww...  Two Nile Special beers and too many card games later, us campers rested ourselves for tomorrow’s thrill.

Our guide was one bad ass woman.  Ripped.  Scars of experience.  Total stud.  She sat us down for a safety lecture, which…aren’t they all the same?  Life vests and helmets on at all times…keep limbs inside the  boat, wa-wa etc. 

Um, NO. 

I started paying attention when she said, “Now I want to remind you all that as human beings, we DO have the ability to hold our breath 10 to 15 secs.  Don’t freak out and think you’re going to drown when you’re not able to come up for air when you want.  Wait it out and count in your head.”

 ((Record scratch))  Excuse me!?  Ok, I’m listening.

After some rehearsal flip drills, paddle techniques, and commands we mushed off to our first class 5 rapid.  Disneyland’s Splash Mountain DOES exist in real life folks.  Holy cow poop.  Our 7 man boat ping ponged between monster water wheel waves for a heavy 15 secs. (although, felt muuuch longer) and spat us out safely– WOOHOO!

Hmm, uh...where’s our guide?? 

Holy cow poop again. 

We definitely did not rehearse the “what-to-do-when-only-your-guide-falls” out drill.  QUITE the intro.  Awesome!   Fear not, the safety crew reached our boat and plucked her out in seconds and we continued to fake like we knew what we’re were doing down 5 more rapids.  I really could go on like a little kid how exhilarating this adult roller coaster was but you get the point.  If nothing else, I HIGHLY, 100% recommend, please, you MUST try rafting if given the opportunity. 

Next milestone…?

Conquering giardia.  A bacterial infection caused by drinking contaminated water.  However, I’m honestly surprised this is first time I’ve caught it considering I grew up hiking in the Sierras (you done darn good Ma!).  Curable with meds and not uncommon here.

Along with my insides, my skin has also undergone some crazy adjustments.   Half the time I don’t know whether I’m covered in dirt or a tan.  My face is one big freckle and I don’t think I’ve had such bad break outs since my freshman year of high school.

Now Isaac, my dear boy…  He’s the younger brother I never had.  School doesn’t start for another week and he chooses to spend his last week off at school reading and writing.

Last week I met his family, which may have been my most profound moment in Uganda yet.   The resemblance between Isaac and his mom is uncanny.  She buckled at my feet in gratitude.  I have NEVER felt so appreciated…worshipped…idolized.  I’m not worthy…  Still struggling to wrap my head around the intensity of how great a role one plays in their family up until they marry and start their own here.  I quickly learned that when you support and create a relationship with a student, you are also gaining 1,2…5 new family members.  How lucky am I..?

You know those places and people you meet and you’re just struck with this undeniable hunch of “I have to bring my kids here someday…”?  Along with meeting Isaac's family THAT is the effect home(hut) visits have left me with.  They have completely solidified Uganda as one of my new stomping grounds.  Denish, my colleague and translator has adopted me as his "sister," has become my dear friend, and has taught me a lifetime’s worth of Ugandan culture and knowledge.

Overall, I have definitely entered a new chapter here from the “Honeymoon” (beginning) stage, to “We’re not in Kanas anymore” (shit happens, powers out, deal with it) stage, to now…"This is home." 

Creeping up on the half way mark - 2 months down, 2 more to go.  Bittersweet…

With September comes the start of Term III and Mt. Kenya prep and summit!  BOOM.  Second highest peak in Africa next to Kilimanjaro reaching 17,000 ft. elevation (Kili 20,000 ft).  My good friend here and I are doing the 6 day Sirimon – Chogoria traverse end of next month.  She is the ONLY other person I’ve met who has also climbed Kili aside from my original group in '07.  We are in for a…frostbite/altitude sickness/technical climb/wildlife spotting/“what the H are doing?!”/this is AWESOME treat.

Cheers to work, life, and play.  Wake up everrry morning GRATEFUL.  Say your prayers and take a moment to get to know someone you normally would never give the second time of day (you’ll love it).

*Special thanks to editor Alana Garrigues and The Beach Reporter for featuring Mercy’s Village, Isaac, and I!!  You can find the article at:

http://tbrnews.com/articles/2012/08/24/hermosa_beach_news/news25.txt

**Isaac’s link is and will remain live.  For those interested and currently involved, I will send out an update and donation request during the middle of each month.  We are in the process of finding schools for him to apply to for Senior 5 and 6.  I am handling all of his finances.  Come November, Nancy (Peace Corps Volunteer who was present at Coffee Hut when Isaac and I first met) or my trusted work partner Denish will take over.  If you would like to make a donation to Isaac’s School Fees Fund please click here:

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=RZYSSUTTA4888

AFOYO!

 

Nile Special on the Nile

 

 

Bye guide!

 

 

Mama Mercy, Mercy, and family

 

 

Beach featured in The Beach Reporter

 

 

He's a real boy!

I don't think I have ever had goose bumps when it's 89 degrees
out...

I arrive at Charity College school a little past 2pm on a Friday.  I
don't care what country or business you are in but when someone walks through
your doors 30 mins. before closing, they're likely to receive a
reluctant welcome.  I was definitely more pleased to meet them than they
were me. 

"So sorry to bother you on the last day of term, but I am
here to inquire about Odong Isaac Crusoe."

Magic words that "Odong Isaac" because smiles immediately spread over
the 2 staff members' faces as they raved in unison about what a "good
boy" he is..."one of our best pupils."

"Could you tell me more about him?  How are his grades?"

And honestly, I don't expect ya'll to believe me but, Monica the
secretary informs me she has some of his work with her and
invites me to her messy desk.  Guess whose file is a top the pile of
paper madness? Yup!

As suspected, Isaac's work yields that he is very bright.  She
was able to finish my sentences about his lost scholarship and financial aide.
"Isaac is one of the FEW boys whom has never had a discipline problem.  The
only thing holding him back is his financial situation."

I share how we met, express that I and some friends from the states are
interested in getting involved, and ask what he owes (mind you, not
yet revealing that Isaac has $330 US to his name as of Aug. 2).  Before
she was able to ask, the accountant (who had stopped by the
office only to drop off a jacket) was already calculating Isaac's grand total.

From the length of the list Monica rattled off, I knew that what
Isaac actually owed was a lot more than 400,000 shillings.  *In order
for him to take exams he must have a min. of 400,000X paid.  Isaac
has only received 5,000X from his "guardians"...about $3, whom by the
sound of it, are not aware nor interested in his education...or him.

I unfold the handmade receipt...tears well in my eyes.

Monica offers comforting words of, "I know it's more than what you
expected but any little bit will help."

Isaac owes 759,000 shillings - exactly $305.00 US.

I tell her I am not sad at all and about the fund started for him on
Tuesday (twice in fact because she did not believe me first round).

She then pulled out her handkerchief...and not to wipe away boogies.

She offered to meet me tomorrow.  I qustioned, "Tomorrow?"

"Yes, Amber tomorrow is Saturday!" she says haha. 

Silly Amberican, just because meetings don't occur on the weekends
in the states doesn't mean they don't in UG!


Hollie, Coesun, Amy, Brittany, Natassia, Andrea, Mama, Aunt Sue, Ray,
Rashel, Carly, Jason, Cuz Matt, Lara, Tatum, Jake, Buddha, Anna, Bookey,
Mandy, and Enya: How does it feel to change a life?  Save a life?

Miracle.

Donations still welcome.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=RZYSSUTTA4888

LOVE,

Amber and Isaac

 



ODONG ISAAC CRUSOE

 

 

 

 

 

Donk

I am sitting at Coffee Hut catching up on the internet usu – yes freakin
Facebook – when I’m approached by a young man, which to be

completely frank I am immune to considering how much it happens.
Begging here is LA traffic: everywhere and unavoidable.   When he
enters, the entire room collectively avoids eye contact, me included.
No one wants to be interrupted on their picture stalking/status
updating session.   In my periphery he’s without a doubt approaching
me for the sheer fact that I am closest to the entrance.  I am already
rehearsing in my head what to say…or what not to, to this stranger as
I’m stalking Tatum Thirgood and uploading a big fat green caterpillar
to my profile.  “Again?  Seriously?” I’m thinking as I feel his eyes
burning a hole in my skull. (Don’t do it. Doh…!)

“Excuse me, I was wondering if you could help me with something?”

(Yes, everyone you can get back to your stalking - he’s found his
target.)  “Ugggh,” says my head and I look up.

Nothing about his appearance strikes me to put him in a different
category than any of the others who’ve pleaded, nay, demanded, “You
give me money now.”  However, instead of putting out his hand he opens
this moth eaten tattered history book, points to a Gmail address, and
says, “I need to know if this still works?”

(That’s your intro?  I’m not buying.)

The lull is painful but the boy knows better than to let silence out
do him.  He proceeds.  “My school fees are due and I need an email to
get sponsored.”

(Man, he’s put some thought into this catch.  No.  I won’t be a victim!)

Silence, awkward.  Eye contact, killer!  Skepticism…still there.
Exhale…  “You want me to login to your email to see if it works?  Ok, we
will check and then that is all.”

Harsh?  Yes, but I did not want this teen to think I was his free
ticket to mooch off of for internet.

Username and Password are incorrect…incorrect…incorrect…

x4.  No alternate email or security question on file.  I break the news to the
boy that his email is not on file, tell him I am sorry, and wish him
best of luck.

Awww…back to Skype – dohhhh!

“Excuse me madam, but I know what you are thinking and I am sorry
but what you are thinking is wrong.  I am sorry to bother you
but I am not stupid like the others.  I am Senior 3
(Junior) and I am smart enough to get into university.”

Donk.

At this point there are 2 other people in Coffee Hut.  An older
woman, white, definitely a mom; and a
trying-to-grow-a-beard-but-can’t-dude blaring music he thinks people
can’t hear through his cheap headphones.  Stupid American….

I give.  “How old are you?”

Isaac is 17 and his English is very “sharp” as they say here.  He was
eligible for a scholarship last year exceeding the qualifying score of
38 with plus 5.  He loves chemistry.  Loves chemistry!  Unfortunately,
his mother and he had to move so she could find work selling oil and
sugar.  His scholarship and 200,000 shillings payment aide were
dropped when he changed schools.  Isaac is now faced with a school fee
of 400,000 shillings ($159.00 US).  He will not be able to take exams
this month if his school fees aren’t paid.

Donk indeed. (Man, was IIIII a jerk.)

As I’m clicking on “Create a New Gmail Account” the mom across the
room says, “I’m emailing my friend who has some connections with
sponsorships in the states,”  just to convey to you how profound of an 

impression he made.

I told Isaac I do not have 400,000 shillings to give him but
to come back to Coffee Hut on Sunday at 2pm.  I don’t
know what I will tell him Sunday, but this is me trying to pull
something together so he can take his exams and have a flying shot at
applying his intelligence and potential.  God…so he can have a flying
shot at life.

If you feel compelled to make a contribution to Isaac's first school fee fund.
Click on the link below.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=RZYSSUTTA4888

Lots of love,

Amber and Odong Isaac Crusoe
 

 

 

Fort Patiko

 

 

School sighting

Biggest Challenge

To answer a lot of your questions about what I eat here...sorry to disappoint
but it's not bugs and bark. The traditional Acholi dish is called posho.
Posho is made out of maize that resembles the consistency of mashed potatoes,
usually paired with beans. Corn and coffee are the major crops grown in Gulu
(if only wine were a major crop here I'd be 3 for 3;). Street vendors are overflowing
with roasted, steamed, and popped corn for purchase. Those who know me,
yes I'm in heaven! There is one super market Uchumi where you can find
mooost of the basics minus variety, cheese, cinnamon, and a hair brush ha.
Any fruits, veg, beans, peanut butter, and “fresh” meat are only found in the
outdoor markets. Indian and Ethiopian restaurants are common and notorious for
food comas. Ethiopian food is my new fav cuisine (Um, hello? You get to eat with
your hands). Mmm!


-I’ve become desensitized to cockroaches, dirt and mud soiling
e-v-e-r-y-thing, the smell of insect repellent, and getting “pet” in
public.
-Did I mention I love Ethiopian food?
-The 5 mi. bike ride to school at dawn has become the favorite part of my day.
-Think of the most selfless person you know and multiply his/her selflessness
by 10 - that sort of person is who you find here - everywhere.
-My toenails have never looked worse and I think I may have forgotten
how to use a blow dryer. What’s make-up again?
-Termite mounds tower taller than doorways.
-Refridgerators are merely a place to store drinks.
-Public toilets = holes in the ground.
-Heart throb Back Street Boys, Celine Dion, and Dolly Parton blare out
of local businesses daily.
-Sweet potatoes here put ours to shame!
-Oh yeah, and I'm obsessed with Ethiopian food.

The sight of 2 men or 2 women holding hands regardless of color is
widely accepted. Holding hands with the opposite sex is frowned
upon and could result in a beating. Beating is a common form of
discipline and punishment in the home, on the streets, and in the
classroom (however prohibited at Mercy’s Village Primary and other
American non-profit schools). You refer to any acquaintance as “my
sister, my brother, or my friend” and not asking “How are you?” in
your initial greeting is considered offensive. Arranged marriages are
practiced and respected. Women are worth money, property, cattle,
goats, and chickens even.

Acholi names are fascinating. At birth you’re given your
birth name describing the circumstance which you were born under
(some are brutally honest and very sad "born into slavery")
or order among siblings. Birth names are also one's surname and
written first. You are also given your first name, which are
mostly British derivatives…Grace, Isabella, Paul, Steward.
At the age of 15 you are allowed to go to the church,
get baptized, and change your first name if you choose.


Biggest challenge: practicing patience. Not every business sticks to
their hours of operation, remains open when it’s raining, or has
school exams prepared when expected by. Showing up an hour late to a
meeting isn’t out of the ordinary nor is waiting an hour and a half
for steamed veggies. Anything wet takes 3 days to dry. Printing 136
surveys can take up to 4 separate visits to the copy store. And my
personal fav, just because you’re at the electrical company to pay
your bill does not guarantee they’ll be able to complete your transaction
when the power is out ha. Abandoning my American standards has been
challenging but it is necessary unless you want to walk around with your
panties in a wad all day (very uncomfortable). Overall, these tests have
been a vital learning experience to be mindful and respectful of cultural
norms and to always have a sense of humor. Phew. A common phrase
my fellow Muzungus and I exchange is “T.I.A. baby” – this is Africa.
And cheers to that! If you’re in need of a moment to gripe and groan,
because let’s be honest we’re all human, set yourself to 2 mins. and spill.
Speaking of… my 2 are up.

Even though the smallest of tasks take on average twice to thrice as
long, I have never lived a more simple life. Priorities are
clear and distractions are few. It’s brilliant. Don’t get me wrong,
I’ve def scoped out the cheapest bottle of wine in town and am not
afraid to share it over a game of Taboo;)…but it’s the absence of
“stuff” that I’m suddenly without that has allowed me to hoan in on
what I actually need on a daily basis. What I actually need in life
materialistically, socially, emotionally, physically, spiritually...very
refreshing. Having less stuff also doubles the value of the anything
you do have. With that said, my second favorite part of the day:
devouring 2 Trader Joes children's chewable gummy bear vitamins.

In the words of my 5 y.o niece Jaden Beach Scott, “Patience my
darling.” Be flexible, be creative, and wake up every morning feeling
grateful. AMEN.

 

Posho, beans, boo, sweet potatos, casava, and chicken

 

 

(yummy)

 

 

Last day of Term II!

 

FULL Body Massage

I’ve gotten pretty used to the sight of brown Q-tip heads.  Riding
around on the back of bodas plus unpaved roads is the perfect dirty
lobe recipe.  Power has been out for 24 hrs. now but it’s actually
quite entertaining to walk around in head lamps in your own living
room gathered around candle sticks.  80 degrees and POURING out.  It’s
typical for our flat to flood even though we’re located on the second
floor ha.

I have an entirely new appreciation for personnel in the medical field
after staring down the throats of 136 students to check their tonsils
for respiratory inflammation.  In all honesty, the kiddos got a kick out of
me more than anything as I repeatedly reflected to them what I wanted
them to do with their mouths.  I wouldn’t be surprised if they think
their newest Muzungu was part baboon.  “Now say, ‘AHHH, ok AHHH.”  Failed
communication attempts bring daily entertainment.  One of our teachers
is expecting and I asked her, “When are you due?”  She heard, “Who did
this to you?” and then pointed across to a colleague and said,
“Definitely not him!”  Gossip in the teacher’s lounge is very similar
to what you would hear in the states.  Teachers bribing each other to
take their less desirable shifts, students, etc.  Priceless.

Despite my lack of training and qualification, along with tonsillitis
I’m becoming familiar with the symptoms of malaria AKA the common cold
in East Africa.  Had a 9 y.o boy come to me saying his head hurt and
within seconds took his temperature to discover he had a temp of
103.3!:( Fever = major symptom of malaria.  Unfortunately, MV’s small
infirmary does not carry the antibiotics to cure malaria, which if
diagnosed early is a onetime 3 dose remedy.  I know 2 US volunteers
who are on Doxycycline (anti-malaria med - mine too) that have caught
malaria and have made a full, although exhausting recovery, which is
discouraging yet comforting at the same time lol.  Locals do not take
anti-malaria meds.  I met a safari tour guide who has had it 7 times!
*Remind me to take de-worming tablets once I return to the states.
It’s standard procedure here every 3 months for EVERYONE.  The
government issues out tabs to all the schools 4x/year.  Yay no worms!

-I’m proud to announce that as of Sunday this Beach can (Mom cover
your ears…err eyes) operate a boda motor bike (with little to no
falling) SOLO!
-In the past week I have been proposed to 4 times.  It was def hard to
turn down the 80 y.o man with no teeth.
-Ugandan masseuses aren’t lying about “FULL body massage” as I kindly
had to remind her to leave my boobs alone.
-Avocados here could fill a size D cup and onions are the size of ping
pong balls.
-Beer costs the equivalent to $1.50 for a 150ml bottle where mustard
costs $8 US dollars.
-Giraffes have no vocal cords and if you plan to safari in the future,
baboons are way scarier than lions AND Amber driving a boda combined.
-One word: EvangelicalGospelChurchesAreAwesome!!  Had my first
“Southern” church experience – WOW.  For those of you familiar with
the scene from Forrest Gump where he participates in the gospel choir.
That was me.

My stroked ego has to admit to feeling like a bit of a celebrity here
walking/riding around with a trail of African children in my shadow.
By far my most happiest moment yet.  They SO just want to touch, wave,
and yell “Mono (slang for white person) how’re you?!”  I’ve also had
the pleasure of speaking with some of the Invisible Children’s
survivors who are no more than a year or two older than me.  I’ve
read, seen, and heard of their God awful experiences, BUT being in
their presence and knowing what they’ve seen; and THEN hearing them
speak of the power of forgiveness and loving thy enemy…can you say
Purple Heart - Medal of Honor x100 sweepstake winners!?!  That doesn't
even do them justice...still get chills.

*If you know of any eager beaver med school students interested and up
for a nursing internship in UG, PLEASE let me know.
**If you would like to sponsor a child or go in with someone to
sponsor a child - sponosrs welcome!

As always, wake up every morning feeling grateful (even for that way
too early alarm, cold shower, and rush hour traffic); and let go of
that rusty grudge and FORGIVE for the Invisible Childrens' sake.

 

 

MVP's infermary and Beach's temp office

 

 

Mercy second from the left